ODERO LAL, Sindh: Some places are defined not by a single faith, but by the people who find meaning in them.
About 20 kilometers from Bhit Shah, in the heart of Sindh, the village of Odero Lal is home to a sacred complex where Muslim and Hindu traditions have coexisted for generations.
From the outside, the shrine is striking: mustard-yellow and golden walls meet turquoise and indigo “kashi” tiles, while white marble courtyards open beneath domes topped with brass finials. Saffron and yellow flags flutter above the complex, while a centuries-old well sits at its center.
But the most remarkable feature is less visible.
Inside the complex, a shrine, mosque and Hindu temple occupy the same sacred space.
Known to Hindus as a place associated with the water deity Jhulelal and to Muslims as the shrine of Sheikh Tahir, Odero Lal has become one of Sindh’s most distinctive examples of shared religious heritage.
Here, the Muslim call to prayer and Hindu devotional rituals take place within the same compound.
A story of building for the other
The tradition of coexistence is rooted in a local legend.
According to historical accounts, Muslims and Hindus once disagreed over what should be built at the site. Rather than allowing the dispute to divide them, the saint at the center of the legend is said to have proposed that each community build a place of worship for the other.
Syed Attaullah Shah Bukhari, Special Secretary for Religious Affairs and a resident of the area, recounted the story to Pakistan TV Digital.
“It is said that when this saint saw Muslims and Hindus arguing over what should be built here, he himself commanded that the Muslims would construct the temple and hand it over to the Hindus, while the Hindus would construct the shrine and hand it over to the Muslims.”
Bukhari said Indian devotees also regularly visited the shrine before the suspension of large-scale cross-border pilgrimages.
One roof, different prayers
Today, the complex continues to accommodate different forms of worship.
“All three, the shrine, mosque, and temple, are under one roof,” said advocate Gulzar Hussain Khaskheli, speaking from the shrine grounds.
“Muslims and Hindus come from different areas at their respective times to offer their prayers here.”
The arrangement is simple: Hindu devotees use the temple for their rituals, while Muslims gather in the mosque for prayers.
The shrine also provides food and accommodation for visitors, extending its role beyond worship to hospitality for pilgrims and travelers.
Community of millions
Hindus are Pakistan’s largest religious minority. The 2023 census recorded about 5.2 million Hindus, representing 2.17% of the population, with the overwhelming majority living in Sindh. The province recorded about 4.9 million Hindus, or 8.81% of its population.
That community maintains a visible religious and cultural life, particularly in Sindh, where Hindu festivals can draw large gatherings.
Holi, Diwali and Navratri are celebrated in communities across the province, while major pilgrimages and melas bring devotees to temples and shrines.
Those celebrations are increasingly visible beyond the communities themselves. Pakistani social-media creators have documented Diwali celebrations in Karachi, while Hindu Pakistani creators have shared videos of Navratri events and other religious traditions with wider online audiences.
Water that crosses borders
Water lies at the heart of the shrine’s spiritual identity.
At the center of the complex is an ancient well whose water is regarded as sacred by Hindu devotees from Pakistan and India.
“Just as the holy water of Makkah is sacred and pure for Muslims, the water from this well is considered sacred and pure by Hindus in India and Pakistan,” said Faqir Faizan, a folk musician associated with the shrine.
“They take it with them as a sacred gift.”
For Hindus, the site is also associated with Jhulelal, a revered water deity whose following extends across the Sindhi diaspora.
The complex comes alive during its major annual gatherings, when devotees travel from different parts of Pakistan and, historically, from across the border.
“The Hindu deity worshipped here is revered by Hindus in India as well,” said Khaskheli.
“A large Hindu community visits this shrine, and a festival is held here twice a year. One is the half-yearly festival, which we call ‘Adhjati’ in Sindhi, and the other is their main annual festival, when the entire Hindu community gathers here.”
Tree older than memory
The complex also has a giant tree that local residents believe is at least 600 years old.
Its history is wrapped in stories of its own.
Special secretary Attaullah said that until about two decades ago, people believed that sugar-like particles appeared on its branches and that they would collect them as sacred gifts.
Story of coexistence
Odero Lal does not erase the differences between the faiths that meet there.
A Hindu temple remains a Hindu temple. A mosque remains a mosque. The shrine retains its own religious identity.
What makes the place unusual is that they exist together.